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                              Last Updated: 08/26/10

                             

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Welcome to a web site full of information on hiking in the Mid-Atlantic Region (PA, MD, VA and WV) ... topo maps, 3-D maps, elevation profiles, GPS data, directions, trail notes, photos.... everything you need to prepare for an excursion into the wilderness. Information for 227 hikes and over 2840 trail miles are now available. Venues such as, but not limited to, Shenandoah National Park/VA,  George Washington and Jefferson National Forests, VA and WV, the Monongahela National Forest in WV, state forests throughout PA, Green Ridge State Forest in MD and regional, state, county and federal parks throughout the Mid-Atlantic region are represented.

 

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"Yet in the walks I take through nature in quest of truth and demonstration, I recognize a poetry in earth and sea and sky, ruled in their cycles of harmonious actions, deeper and more sublime than ever muse un- taught in science could inspire." William B. Rogers: First State Geologist of VA, First president of M.I.T. and namesake of Mt. Rogers, Va.

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Latest Published Hikes

Trough Creek State Park Circuit, PA

Bear Meadows-Indian Wells loop, PA

Bear Meadows Loop, PA

Thickhead Wild Area-Detweiler Natural Area Loop, PA

John P. Saylor-North Loop, PA

Blue Knob State Park Circuit, PA

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2010 Car Camping and Backpacking schedule has arrived: See it here!

 

Flora and Fauna Link Updated: Last year at this time the site had photos and info for over 500 species. As of today it has over 700. Check it out.

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M. R. Hyker's Latest Adventure(s)

 


 

 

It’s been a while since I’ve posted any adventures. That’s not to say I’ve been sitting at home on my duff doin’ nothing. Quite the contrary! I and several of my friends have been spending our weekends traipsing through Penn’s woods. Our camping trip to Blue Knob and related hikes within the park and the John P. Saylor trail was a great success despite a nasty thunderstorm during the park hike. The latter has become one of my favorites despite the lack of views and waterfalls. As a matter of fact, I’m hoping to lead a group of novices on a 17 mile JPS backpack next year.
 
 This past weekend we began our initial exploration of the Mid-State trail and its side trails in Rothrock State Forest just south of State College. The weather was glorious for the first two days but turned hot and humid on Monday. We began the trip at Penn-Roosevelt State Park. First we started by hiking 0.5 miles in the wrong direction while climbing about 500 feet. Fortunately I looked at my GPS and realized the error. My cohorts seemed to take my mistake in stride as we corrected our course and hiked another 4.5 miles with some more serious climbs in the right direction to our base camp.

We left the Mid-State trail and climbed out of the Detweiler drainage on the Shingle Trail and descended steeply to join the John Wert Path. What started as an old gravel road passing some hunter’s cabins turned quickly into a beautiful trail through Hemlock and Rhododendron tunnels following the southern bank of Sinking Creek. After crossing a gas pipeline we ran into a pair of day hikers who insured us that there was some good camping on water just before reaching Bear Meadows Road. We found the giant Hemlock they told us about and the campsite just beyond. After setting up camp several hikers went out to gather blueberries while the rest of us lounged around. We spent the evening in the usual fashion with dinner and fireside chat. Ted E. Bear led a group on a star gazing expedition while I and others turned in for the night.
 
It dropped down into the 50s that night making for some pretty good sleeping weather. It was a little hard crawling out of the sack the next morning but a 14 mile day hike awaited us. We ate breakfast, prepared our packs and hiked out to
Bear Meadows. The view was pretty impressive. I was a little disappointed in the trail though. That’s not to say it wasn’t a good trail with all of the Hemlocks and Rhodos we walked through but I was hoping for open views of the meadows as we circumnavigated it, something more like the Cowpasture trail around Cranberry glades in WV. At its midpoint we took a break at a nice, grassy, “illegal” campsite near a spring. A short walk along North Bear Meadows Road led us to a very long and gradual descent on the Lonberger Path followed by a short climb up Spruce Gap Tr, a level hike along Three Bridges Tr and its very refreshing piped spring. That was some of the best water this hiker has ever drunk. We took an extra long break there before we started a steep climb up the Old Laurel Run Tr to Fire Tower Road. We opted to take the road to the tower instead of the Mid-State Trail knowing that we would be experiencing a rocky tread soon enough. After another break at the tower we finally began our hike along the narrow ridge of Greenlee Mountain with great vista after vista, the Tom Thwaites Monument and an overabundance of blue berries. The best and rockiest view was probably Indian Wells where we could see almost everywhere we had hiked up to this point. As we entered the Big Flat Laurel Natural Area the tread improved greatly. We passed three charcoal flats that have been used as campsites before descending to N. Bear meadows Road once again. A quick and steep descent soon found us back on the Bear meadows Trail where we regrouped before returning to camp, each at his/her own pace. Everybody was impressed with the quality of the hike. I enjoyed it a lot but unfortunately began suffering the symptoms of severe dehydration over the last two miles. I am very familiar with the feeling but haven’t experienced it in two years. I knew I would have trouble on the final day. Upon returning to camp I drank a couple of liters of fluids, nibbled on some junk food and called it an early night.
 
 On the final morning I made the decision to truncate our hike out by about a mile by walking Bear Meadows Road to the Mid-State trail crossing. We did so easily and descended quickly into the beautiful Detweiler Natural Area. I wish I could have enjoyed it more but it was here, at the junction of the Greenwood Furnace Spur Trail that I hit the wall. You know … that wall that I think all hikers have hit at least once in their lives? Most of the group was eager to get back to the cars. Dottie and Mark were having battery problems and were probably going to need a jump start and find a mechanic soon, Short Stack blew out the heels of both boots on the rocks and Judge N. Amy and Indiana Moser could just plain “smell the barn” as we say. They had a couple of maps and the trail was well marked so I sent them on there way with a few basic instructions. The Daryl brothers, Jeff and Rob were kind enough to stay back with me. It was really slow going for a while, especially the mile plus after crossing the gas pipeline. It wasn’t steep but, being an old RR grade with ballast intact, was damned rocky. I think it is the only trail in my entire hiking experience that I’ve cursed (repeatedly). I was so into just getting off of that trail that I couldn’t begin to tell you what my surroundings looked like. Finally we made it to the turnoff that takes you up and out of the Detweiler Run drainage. We took a break there and mustered up the strength to make the final climb. After the initial steep descent on the other side of Detweilder Run Road the hiking became easier and I once again began to enjoy the hike. It took us 2 extra hours more than the lead group to make it out of the woods but we did it.
 
 Overall this was a great trip with a bunch of great people. I’m sure I would have enjoyed the final day more if not for the dehydration issue and probably would have scoffed the “Devil’s Highway” instead of bemoaning it (not really). I’ll just have to get back to doing the things that I preach to newbies to prevent/limit dehydration in the future. After seeing the area first hand I will probably publish three separate hikes on my site and give the visitor the option to combine them to make their own day hike or backpack. I will be back!

 

 

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08-14 to 16-2010, Car Camping and Day Hiking at Trough Creek SP, PA: This was supposed to be a five day vacation but because of the recent heat and humidity we shortened it to 4 days with the option to shorten it further if necessary. Even though we tried hard to take our time we still found ourselves leaving the house only 30 minutes later than usual and arrived at a very nice primitive campground at Trough Creek SP before 1:00. We ate lunch and took our time setting up and still had plenty of time to kill before dinner. We grabbed a park map from the kiosk, loaded up the dogs and took a driving tour of the main sites off of Trough Creek Drive. First we visited the Ice Mine (very cool, literally), the bridge across the creek at picnic area #5, The suspension bridge, Rainbow Falls (just a trickle this time of year) and the ever popular Copperas Rock (The yellow stains are from Iron Sulfate leaching from a coal seam somewhere above it. Ancient Latin for this chemical compound is “Copperas”.). We arrived back at camp just in time for a brief happy hour followed by a very casual Filet Mignon and salad dinner. It was pretty cool that night so the sleeping was pretty good.

We awoke the next morning to some light but steady showers. We ate breakfast and hunkered down until the rain stopped. I had prepared my hiking gear in advance so was ready the moment it stopped. We had our own private trail at our site that led to Terrace Mountain Road which Phyker and I had planned to use to join the park’s trail system. In just five minutes we discovered an almost intact Iron Furnace or some other structure related to the iron industry. It’s my understanding that several such structures dot the mountainsides in this area. We soon descended on a spur trail that took us to the Laurel Run Trail. Although a small stream it cuts its way through a dark, steep, rocky gorge filled with Rhodos, Hemlock and Mountain Laurel. The trail is severely eroded in places and all eight of the bridges mentioned in the park brochure have either rotted away or have been otherwise destroyed. The abutments of some are still easily recognizable while others have been knocked down to form rock crossings. I doubt that bridges are really needed here since the highest water stains I could find were only 3-4 inches higher than the present level. The absence of these structures adds a more boreal feel to the hike. Where the gorge is the narrowest there is a high water route that can be taken should the crossings prove difficult. After the last crossing the trail made a sharp turn away from the top of the gorge and very gently climbed to Terrace Mountain Road. For a moment I thought I was in Kansas but then I awoke and realized that a PA trail builder accidentally used a switchback during the construction of this trail. I’m sure he was severely chided by his trail building compatriots for doing such a thing in the Woods of Penn. The trail then crossed the road on an angle and joined an easy to walk on haul road that took us to the Boulder Trail and subsequently to the Ice Mine we visited yesterday. We continued on to the creek where we took our first real break. We crossed the bridge and turned right onto Old Forge Road. In a few minutes we could see the old park dam on the right and then a guard rail blocking the road. We had somehow missed our turn off onto the Brumbaugh Trail.  We slowly retraced our steps and found the signs high up on the hill above eye level. We began a long moderate climb up the east flank of Terrace Mountain.

Two notes about the park map here:

1) As shown on their map the east side of the Brumbaugh Trail is a very bad approximation. In actuality the trail climbs gradually somewhat paralleling the Terrace Mountain Trail and Trough Creek Bay before turning left and making a direct assault at the steepest part of the mountain.

2) The brochure and trailhead signs indicate that the blazes should be orange. This section of the trail only had about 3 faded blazes (due to a lack of suitable trees probably). Two were yellow and one was orange. Once beyond the crest of the ridge the frequency of blazes increase and they are all made of fresh yellow paint.

During our climb I was beginning to wonder if this part of the hike was really worth it. A long ago attack by Gypsy Moths had permanently left the canopy naked, allowing trail-crowding thickets of Striped Maple, Beech and thorns to replace the previously healthy Oak forest. We were almost at the top so stuck with it and soon found ourselves walking along the ridge with the mountain falling away quickly on either side of us. We got some window sized views of the creek valley to our left and of Raystown Lake to our right. The views are probably much better in the winter when the leaves are off. We made one more short ascent to reach the high point of the hike at about 1600 feet. This is obviously a big deal to many of the park visitors since it is marked with a large carin. The south section of the trail was nothing at all like the east section. We walked on gently descending, well blazed haul roads with, for the most part, a healthy hardwood forest with a fern understory all around us. Near the bottom there were some Striped Maple thickets but these were quite tall and provided a dense canopy to walk under. After crossing Old Forge Road we hooked up with the Raven Rocks trail and soon found ourselves at the Balanced Rock. It looks like with one good shove it would fall to the creek below and shatter into little pieces but it’s been perched there for millions of years. We descended to the Rainbow Falls and then the Suspension Bridge, both of which we visited yesterday, before joining the aptly named Rhododendron Trail.  This short trail had two surprises in store for us. First we found a nice deep refreshing pool for Precious to cool off in and then secondly we came face to face with a thirty foot high cliff. The trail went right up the side of it. Hoping this was going to be the last of anything approaching difficult. I grabbed a hold of any root, branch or rock that I could reach and pulled myself to the top. Even Precious was having traction issues but her sharp claws finally dug in and she made it. Needless to say this last little ordeal required a brief break as we looked 50 feet down into the creek. From there it was an easy walk out to Copperas Rock. We hiked down the road to pick up a short section of the Laurel Run trail that we had hiked earlier and retraced our initial steps back to camp. With the exception of the east section of the Brumbaugh Trail this was a very enjoyable hike, one that I wouldn’t mind doing again. I should also note that, except for around the Balanced Rock and Suspension bridge I only saw three serious hikers and they were in one group.

That night and the following day was very hot and humid. My next hike was supposed to be a mostly easy 6 mile hike on the Terrace Mountain Trail and the park road. We found the trailhead the previous day (It’s about 10 minutes from camp) so we slept in even later than yesterday, ate breakfast and hung around camp for a while before heading out. Janet dropped me off at the Tatman Run Access Trailhead around 11:00. The initial hike was a pleasant descent through a hardwood forest on a blue blazed footpath to a pipeline with a nice view of the lake. A post here indicated that I should turn left but all I could see was the beach and playground area. A well worn path went to the right on the pipeline as it steeply climbed up and over Terrace Mt. I pulled out the Army Corps of Engineers trail notes to find them absolutely worthless in resolving this issue. It seems the writer was more interested in describing the history, geology and flora and fauna of the area then providing accurate directions. It tells the hiker all about the pipeline but not what to do once there. Well, we turned right and followed the trail about 25% of the way on the steep part of the pipeline. If this is the right way it definitely wasn’t my idea of having a good time. The trail was too steep for me to hike on. As it was descending from here was going to be tricky. Reluctantly I turned around and coaxed Precious back down to the blazed post. We followed its direction looking carefully for anything that looked like a trail. At the edge of the beach area I spotted a well worn trail but without blazes. It appeared to be a fisherman’s trail that ended abruptly at the Lake’s sure. By this point I was soaked in my own sweat and Precious was panting like I’ve never seen her pant before. We sat down under a shady maple tree and rehydrated as I mulled the situation. I had given up on trying to find the continuation of the trail. Could we road walk the five miles back to camp on a hard surfaced road in the blazing sun and high humidity? I didn’t bring my cell phone since I never get a signal out here so I couldn’t call Janet. Her phone was probably off any way. Just then a young gentleman came along and offered us a ride in the back of his pickup after his kids were finished playing in the playground. I graciously accepted and in 20 minutes found ourselves back at camp drinking water and iced tea. With nothing left in the hopper of information that I had brought with me to keep me occupied and the anticipation of yet another hot and humid night in the tent we decided to break camp early and spend the rest of our vacation in the coolness of our air conditioning  drinking Janet’s homemade sweet tea.

Although we had to shorten the trip I consider it to have been a good one even though I failed to accomplish all of my goals. I will be back to hike the Terrace Mountain Trail once I find out where my error was. Can anyone help in that matter?

 

Read More Adventures Here!

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Latest Outing Critiques

Name: Dave Eccleston                                                                                     Hike: Dolly Sods Circumnavigation
Date: Sept 10-12, 2009                                                                                             Rating: 4.8

Critique: Magnificent hike. Did it as a 3 day backpacking trip. Weather was perfect. The variety of terrain in this trip makes it really interesting: high plains, deep forests, rocky paths, beautiful streams. Wonderful swimming hole at the south end of Red Creek, hit that about noon and made for a nice break. Navigation was a little tricky because of the lack of signs/blazes. Saw some wildlife: newt, turkey, and deer. Camped next to the out and back to Lion's Head so I could do it unencumbered, was definitely worth the trip.

Name: Dave Eccleston                                                                                     Hike: Saint Mary's Wilderness
Date: July 23-25 2010                                                                                               Rating: 3.5

Critique: This hike had a couple of highlights, notably the falls on the Saint Mary's River (nice swimming), and the overlook at Flint Mountain. We also came across a few of the old mine sites, which was pretty interesting. We did the backpacking loop, but found that a lot of this trip is in really thick forest and it's hard to catch a glimpse of any overlooks. Also, take the advice to heart: once you leave the river and ascend to Green Pond there's no water for a *long* time! It was very hot, and we were getting really low on water by the time we descended to a barely running creek near Bald Mountain.

Name: Pasquale                                                                                                Hike: Kelly's Run
Date: 8/23/2010                                                                                                         Rating: 4

Critique: We started opposite because when we arrived there were fellow hikers coming out so, unfortunately, we ended up getting confused towards the end. Where we suppose to technically get to the overlook (which unfortunately did not see due to our confusion) we didn't see any blazes until we got to a sign for Kelly's run which is where the blazes ended.

All in all, what we saw was gorgeous. There was this little waterfall in the stream that I splashed myself with to cool off and, wow, it was simply amazing. SO refreshing.

Next time, I will be bringing a print out!

Name: Tyler S.                                                                                                             Hike: Rocky Knob-Quarry Gap Backpack
Date: 08/6 - 7/2010                                                                                                  Rating: 3

Critique: My girlfriend and I did the full hike, including one night at the Birch Run campsite, on a Friday/Saturday in early August. It took us about 8 hours. Our cell phone calculated more like 20 miles, as opposed to the 14.7 miles, but I'm not sure which is more accurate. It was a largely flat terrain with only a few areas of elevation. The lake was pretty, and the wooded areas were pleasant enough with the trees providing a cooling shade during the hot summer sun. We hardly passed anyone else, although there was another couple using the shelter at Birch Run. There were multiple camping opportunities along the way, although we stuck with Birch Run because there were a few sites further from the trail and because there was a bear pole. Note that there are no clean water sources along this route, only some streams (so you will need to have iodine tablets or boil the water). The water spigots on the map were misleading! You do pass a few gravel roads along the way, which do take away from the seclusion factor of the hike a bit. No sweeping views or vistas. Overall, a decent relatively easy hike, probably more beautiful in the spring (due to all the Rhododendrons) or the fall.

Name: Kristin Wilcox                                                                                                  Hike: Little Devils Staircase
Date: 8/7/10                                                                                                               Rating: 4

Critique: I did this as a solo hike, staying on the blue-blazed trail to complete the longer loop. About half a mile after passing the yellow-blazed loop, I saw a black bear and a cub crossing the trail about 50 feet in front of me. They disappeared up the embankment into the woods, and I yelled loudly and clapped, hoping to scare them further into the forest. As I continued down the trail, though, I realized they were just 20 feet or so off of the path and the mama bear was standing her ground. She ROARED at me as I passed her! I don't think I'd complete this hike again without bear spray. Other than that, it was a beautiful hike, although trees had fallen across the path in several places and proved difficult to maneuver around.

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